From the outside, signs of a church are few: two small crosses, barely                in view (and the same for the belfry that takes some craning to see.)              Traces of a wide fresco of five figures (however religious they appear)              topped off by a hut-like cover: crude in form as re-used stone is dear.

Once inside, a single nave, atop the raised floor, gives the game away.              As do the many frescoes, however damaged, shout what they portray:              the Blessed Mother and Child is everywhere, with crucifixions galore.                Over by the crypt, though, a martyred St. Becket fights a political war.

Tough rhymes give way to a weak photo shoot. Can’t blame it on the (new) camera nor criticize the scaffolding: without that work, Chiesa dei SS. Giovanni e Paolo (XII sec.)  would still be closed. And I still wondering about what it holds out for vagrant contrarians on a Sunday in a foreign country.

P.S.  Illustrative photos, however lame, were meant to supplement these words.  They are still hanging fire somewhere between the Wi-Fi and this upgraded(sic) operating system.  Post later, if the gods ordain.